Breaking Down the Myths: What Really Works in Skincare (and What Doesn’t)

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Most of you know just how obsessed I am with skincare by now. However, what you might not know is how dedicated I am to also learn more about how our skin works. You see, I have a medical background; I was never shy about sharing that. But I also have a particular soft spot for all things dermatology-related. Therefore, I truly believe that I can contribute a lot when it comes to breaking down the myths of what really works in skincare and what doesn’t.

And that’s exactly what this article is supposed to be about. But don’t worry; I won’t bore you with unnecessary scientific information that will be difficult to understand. Instead, I want to keep things simple and lighthearted and talk mainly from my personal experience. And trust me when I tell you—there has been plenty of it. The way I will go about this is by sharing the most common skincare concerns and dividing into what can really help with them and what doesn’t.

Acne

Let’s start with an absolute classic—acne or just breakouts in general. If you’ve never had acne in your life, count yourself blessed. I did have quite a bit of it during my teenage years; however, it reappeared during my mid-twenties as well. The issue is—once I was out of puberty, my skin became a lot drier and more sensitive. So I wasn’t really able to use harsh active ingredients such as 10% benzoyl peroxide. If you can—know that this was what saved my skin more than a decade ago now. So, I would definitely advise you to give it a try.

What Helped?

I think many of you are already tired of me spreading the word about vitamin A derivatives. However, there’s simply nothing that has worked for my skin better than this. On the other hand, there’s also nothing that has irritated my skin as much. So, that’s why I always tell you to be very cautious when introducing any type of vitamin A derivative into your routine.

Personally, my skin isn’t able to handle super potent stuff such as tretinoin. However, I also don’t get good results from ordinary retinol. So, what’s the solution? In my case—retinal. Retinal is one of the only vitamin A derivatives that also has antibacterial properties, which makes it an amazing choice for anyone dealing with breakouts and acne. However, it’s also a lot gentler than other similar products, which allows me to use it pretty much every night.

I know that many of you will be asking, so I’ll answer right away—I’m using the Geek & Gorgeous A-Game 10 retinal. I have no affiliation with this brand whatsoever; however, I am really impressed by how effective and affordable their products are. However, keep in mind that this is a Hungarian brand, which means that it could be a bit harder to get your hands on their products if you’re living outside of Europe.

Fine Lines & Wrinkles

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Comparison. Portrait of beautiful woman with problem and clean skin, aging and youth concept, beauty treatment and lifting. Before and after concept. Youth, old age. Process of aging and rejuvenation

Another huge skincare concern—fine lines and wrinkles. I have to be honest here; I’m just 27, which means that my face still isn’t showing any significant signs of aging. Sure, I have a few fine lines around my eyes, but that’s about it. However, another thing that I have to be honest about is that my skin is looking better and younger now at 27 than it did at 22 when I basically had no skincare routine at all. So, here’s what has worked for me.

What Helped?

Once again, vitamin A derivatives will be your best friend here. They boost collagen production and cell turnover, which makes them ideal for anti-aging routines. However, because I don’t want to repeat myself, I’ll mention other things that will also have a significant impact. Of course, sunscreen will be one of the most important factors. If you’re not already using sunscreen in your daily skincare routine, then what are you even doing with your life? Sun damage is the number one cause of premature aging, so please take sun protection seriously.

Another important thing that I would have to share with you is to always use an antioxidant serum. While vitamin C serums are the most popular option, I’m aware of the fact that they won’t work for everyone. Especially not if you have super sensitive skin (I’m talking about serums with actual Ascorbic Acid). However, there are plenty of other options available—Copper peptides, green tea, or even Cica. All of these are great options, even for more sensitive skin types. Antioxidant serums protect your skin against environmental damage while also boosting the efficacy of your sunscreen.

Hyperpigmentation

Next on the list, we have hyperpigmentation, a skincare concern that many of us have had to deal with during our lifetime. Melasma, sun spots, or post-inflammatory marks—there are so many variations of hyperpigmentation. And the truth is—there’s no easy fix for any of them. In fact, this can be one of the most difficult things to get rid of when it comes to your complexion. So, it’s important to approach this from different perspectives.

What Helps?

One of the best OTC products to fight hyperpigmentation is Azelaic Acid. You can find a 10% suspension of this active ingredient sold by many different brands. However, the issue here is that sometimes this concentration simply won’t be enough. Especially if you have a more severe case of hyperpigmentation. In that case, visiting your dermatologist and asking for a prescription-strength product might be the right move.

If your only issue is post-acne marks, a Niacinamide serum might be what’s best for you. This is a great antioxidant that works great for fading out dark spots, especially the ones caused by inflammation. However, I have to warn you that not every skin type can tolerate it.

Finally, and to be honest, medical laser treatments might be your best option here. Sure, it’s not what most people want to hear. However, if you have very stubborn hyperpigmentation on your face, and you’re just feeling like nothing is working for you, chances are that you need something stronger than a topical cream or treatment. Even though lasers are a more invasive approach to skincare, you can be certain that you’ll get noticeable results from them.

Oily, Clogged Skin

Oily skin and clogged pores can be so annoying; however, I also have some great news for you. Oily skin types actually age more gracefully, so if you’re constantly annoyed by the amount of sebum that your face produces, this is a good thing to keep in mind. However, let’s go over what you can do to keep oil production under control, at least to some degree.

What Helps?

I’ll tell you what doesn’t help—trying to strip your skin. That’s absolutely never the answer. In fact, sometimes your face will just produce more oil as a response to that. So, what can you do here? First of all, I would encourage you to take a look at your existing routine. Are you using heavy products that make your face feel greasy right after application?

Oily skin is very specific when it comes to moisturizers, serums, and cleansers. The goal here is to opt for lightweight products that hydrate your skin without adding any heaviness to it. This is where K-beauty products absolutely shine, so if you haven’t tried them out yet, I would definitely encourage you to do so.

Next, we have Salicylic acid. Personally, I am not a huge fan. However, a lot of people with oily skin absolutely love this ingredient. You can try a cleanser, serum, or even moisturizer with 2% SA and see how it works for you. This is a great ingredient that penetrates deeply into your skin, exfoliating it while also helping control sebum production.

Dry, Flakey Skin

Last, but certainly not least, let’s discuss dry and flaky skin. This is something a lot of us have to deal with, particularly during the colder seasons. However, no matter how dry your skin may be, there are still ways to make it feel soft and bouncy again.

What Helps?

First and foremost, hydration is key. Look for moisturizers containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin, which help to attract and retain moisture in the skin. Additionally, incorporating a humidifier into your living space can help to add moisture to the air, preventing further dehydration of your skin.

Exfoliation is another important step in your skincare routine. Regularly sloughing away dead skin cells helps to reveal fresh, smooth skin underneath. Opt for gentle exfoliants, such as lactic acid or fruit enzymes, to avoid irritating already sensitive skin.

Incorporating a rich, nourishing oil into your skincare routine can also work wonders for dry skin. Look for oils like jojoba, argan, or rosehip, which are known for their hydrating and soothing properties.

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